Forgotten, and thus less-appreciated, in favor of turkey Thanksgiving (and even Christmas), ham has its day on Easter.
We mustn’t lose sight of what this cured beauty brings to the table, even if its gobbling counterpart reigns supreme on that Thursday late November, the turkey takes a backseat as each new spring dawns.
When the church bells ring, and people in pastels and seersucker hurry home, it’s often a giant ham that awaits them, ready for slicing, even if we don’t know the true answer to the question: Why do we eat ham on Easter?
While The Daily Meal notes lamb was originally the main course for most Easter dinners, a tradition that spanned 3,000 years and still holds true for many, including the Jewish holiday Passover. Ham became a less expensive alternative to lamb on Easter once there was less demand for wool in the U.S. after World War II.
For more insight into ham’s prominent place on the Easter Sunday dinner table, we turned to Martie Duncan, a Birmingham chef, party planner and “Food Network” star who co-authored cookbooks “Alabama Cravings,” “Magic City Cravings” and “Birmingham’s Best Bites.”
Do you know why we eat ham on Easter Sunday? When did this tradition start?
Martie Duncan: According to some of my food history resources, before there was refrigeration, ham was always cured and available year-round; it was likely all that was left in the larder before spring thaw and spring harvest. It is said to have typically been put up in the fall so it was ready to eat by Easter. I don’t know if that is true or not, but ham is inexpensive and can feed a large crowd so it does make perfect sense to serve it for a big gathering. Since everything is available to us these days with refrigeration, we have ham on the menu at Easter because it is a family tradition. Our mothers and grandmothers had ham for Easter, so we do too.
Is this a nationwide or even worldwide tradition? Does the South lay any particular claim to it?
It is known to be an American tradition and not necessarily Southern but it is more linked to farming communities. Most of my friends from outside the South have lamb for Easter and of course, lamb is also a popular dish for Passover. People of Mediterranean descent likely have lamb for Easter, too.
Ham is rarely the featured entrée (besides sandwiches), even though it’s often a complementary item during holidays like Thanksgiving and Christmas. Do you think ham works well as an entrée?
Certainly, it is an entrée. While turkey gets top billing for Thanksgiving, many homes would include the less expensive ham as a supplement to the menu. My mother would often cook a small ham for Thanksgiving for those who didn’t like turkey. She would also cook a large ham for Christmas and would save some to serve for New Year’s Day for good luck with black eyed peas and greens. I tend to follow her traditions -- and I think most people do that. We want to include the food and traditions we grew up with for the holidays.
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Why does ham work well for Easter? Or does it? Is it a good pairing with potatoes, carrots, deviled eggs, asparagus and the other traditional Easter items?
I think it is a matter of personal preference. I prefer ham because that’s what I grew up with but many of my friends prefer lamb with those same traditional side dishes.
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